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Tulip Time

Sep 9, 2022 |

It’s finally here, that time of year that we’ve all been anticipating – fall! And, you know what...

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Helpful Guides

Discover smarter ways to enhance your garden and landscape with our tailored checklists and curated plant collections, designed to help you make the most of your outdoor spaces.
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Resources

Our Resources section helps you grow healthier plants and maintain a thriving, beautiful garden year-round. 🌿

Some Useful Information Sources:

  • The Old Farmer’s Almanac Garden Guide: Provides hundreds of free, specific, and downloadable guides for vegetables, herbs, fruits, and flowers, including tips on hardiness zones, soil, and pests.
  • joegardener Free Resources: Offers guides on composting, soil health, and 5-step plans to jumpstart your gardening.
  • Homestead Gardens Guides: Provides downloadable PDF guides for year-round bulb planting, pollinator-friendly gardening, and sustainable summer gardening.
  • USDA National Agricultural Library Gardening Resources: Features extensive factsheets and links to university extensions (such as Texas A&M and Cornell) on topics ranging from container gardening to seed starting.

FAQ

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    • Never use straight garden soil in containers — it compacts and drains poorly. Use a high-quality potting mix formulated for containers, which is lighter, drains well, and contains the right balance of nutrients. For raised beds, a blend of topsoil, compost, and coarse material (perlite or aged wood chips) works well. We carry a full selection of potting mixes and raised bed soils.

    • Containers dry out much faster than in-ground plantings, especially in summer heat. Check containers daily during hot weather — stick your finger an inch into the soil; if it’s dry, water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom. Lightweight, porous pots and small containers dry out fastest. Self-watering containers or adding water-retention crystals to your potting mix can help reduce the frequency.

    • You can, but it’s best to refresh it. Old potting mix loses its structure and nutrient content over time. Mix in 25–30% fresh compost and a slow-release fertilizer to rejuvenate last year’s soil for a new season. If any of your plants suffered from disease last year, it’s safer to start with fresh mix to avoid reinfecting new plants.

    • For shaded spots, try impatiens, begonias, caladiums, ferns, coleus, and hostas. These all perform beautifully in lower-light conditions and provide rich color and texture even without direct sun. Pair a thriller (tall, bold plant), a filler (mounding plant), and a spiller (trailing plant) for a container combination that looks professionally designed.

    • As soon as soil is workable (usually March–April in our area), cut back any perennials and ornamental grasses left from winter, rake out beds, and apply a fresh layer of compost. Hold off on planting annuals until after the last frost date (late April). This is a great time to plant cool-season vegetables like lettuce, spinach, kale, and pansies, which can tolerate light frost.

    • Both are valuable. Fall cleanup reduces overwintering sites for pests and disease. Spring cleanup allows seed heads and plant structure to benefit wildlife through winter. Many gardeners do a light fall cleanup (removing diseased plants, cutting back aggressive spreaders) and a more thorough spring cleanup once they can see what survived winter. Our landscaping team offers both spring and fall cleanup services — contact us for a free estimate.

    • After the first hard frost, cut back dead annuals and any perennials you prefer to tidy in fall. Apply 2–3 inches of mulch over perennial beds to insulate roots through freeze-thaw cycles. Water evergreen trees and shrubs deeply before the ground freezes. Bring in any tender plants, container tropicals, and summer bulbs (dahlias, cannas) before temperatures drop below freezing.

    • Cool-season vegetables (lettuce, spinach, peas, kale, broccoli) can go in the ground as early as late March or April — they tolerate light frost. Warm-season vegetables (tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash) should wait until after May 15 in our area, once the danger of frost has fully passed and soil has warmed.

    • Japanese beetles, aphids, slugs, spider mites, and deer are the most common culprits in our area. Japanese beetles are particularly destructive in July and August, feeding on roses, grapes, linden trees, and many other plants. We carry both conventional and organic treatment options for all common pests.

    • Hand-picking beetles into a bucket of soapy water in the early morning (when they’re sluggish) is effective for small infestations. For larger problems, neem oil or pyrethrin-based sprays work well on contact. Avoid Japanese beetle traps — research shows they actually attract more beetles to your yard than they catch. Treating your lawn for grubs in late summer also helps reduce next year’s beetle population.

    • Yes. Deer tend to avoid plants with strong scents, fuzzy textures, or toxic properties. Reliably deer-resistant plants for our area include lavender, Russian sage, catmint, salvia, ornamental grasses, boxwood, spirea, and most ferns. No plant is 100% deer-proof when populations are high and food is scarce, but choosing deer-resistant varieties significantly reduces damage.

    • Start with healthy soil and properly sited plants — stressed plants are far more vulnerable to pest and disease problems. Encourage beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings by planting flowers such as fennel, dill, and coneflower nearby. Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, and diatomaceous earth as first-line organic treatments. We carry a full selection of organic and integrated pest management products.

    • Late August through mid-September is the optimal window for seeding cool-season grasses (fescue, bluegrass, ryegrass) in southeastern PA. Soil temperatures are still warm enough for germination, fall rains help with establishment, and there’s less weed competition than in spring. Spring seeding (April) is a secondary option but requires more diligence with watering.

    • For cool-season lawns in Pennsylvania, fertilize 2–4 times per year. The most important application is in fall (September–October), which feeds the roots and helps the lawn recover and thicken. A lighter application in late spring is beneficial but avoid fertilizing in the heat of summer, which can stress cool-season grasses. We carry a full line of lawn fertilizers for every season.

    • Brown patches can result from several things: drought stress, grub damage, fungal disease, or dog spots. In late summer, check for grubs by cutting a square of turf and peeling it back — if you find more than 5–6 white grubs per square foot, treatment is warranted. We carry grub controls and lawn fungicides, and our staff can help you identify the specific problem.

    • Yes, in most cases. Grass clippings decompose quickly and return valuable nitrogen to the soil — the equivalent of one fertilizer application per season. This is called “grasscycling.” The exception is if your lawn has an active disease problem, in which case bagging clippings reduces spread.

    • Plant spring-blooming bulbs in fall — typically October through mid-November in Montgomery County. Wait until soil temperatures have cooled after the first frost, which signals the bulbs won’t push up premature growth. Tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and crocus can all be planted as late as Thanksgiving if needed, as long as the ground isn’t frozen solid.

    • Yes! Dahlias, cannas, gladiolus, and caladiums are all warm-season bulbs planted in spring after the last frost (late April–May in our area). These provide spectacular summer color and are well worth the effort. Note that most of these are not winter-hardy in Zone 6b and should be dug up and stored indoors over winter, or treated as annuals.

    • Healthy soil is dark, loose, and full of organic matter. It drains well but holds enough moisture for roots to access. A simple at-home test: grab a handful — if it clumps loosely and crumbles when pressed, that’s a good sign. For a more accurate picture, a soil test through Penn State Extension will tell you your pH, nutrient levels, and what amendments your soil needs. We recommend testing every 2–3 years.

    • Soil pH measures acidity or alkalinity on a scale of 1–14, with 7 being neutral. Most garden plants prefer a slightly acidic pH of 6.0–6.8. When pH is off, plants cannot absorb nutrients properly even if those nutrients are present in the soil. Acid-loving plants like blueberries, azaleas, and rhododendrons prefer pH around 4.5–5.5. We carry soil amendments to raise or lower pH as needed.

    • The best way to improve any soil — whether it’s heavy clay or sandy — is to add organic matter. Compost is king. Work 2–3 inches of compost into your beds each spring. Over time this improves drainage in clay soils, improves moisture retention in sandy soils, and feeds beneficial soil organisms. We carry a full selection of bagged and bulk soils, composts, and amendments.

    • Mulch conserves moisture, regulates soil temperature, suppresses weeds, and adds organic matter as it breaks down. Shredded hardwood mulch is the most popular and widely used in our area. Apply 2–3 inches deep around plants, keeping mulch a few inches away from the base of stems and trunks to prevent rot. Avoid “volcano mulching” — piling mulch against tree trunks is one of the most common and damaging mistakes homeowners make.

    • In most landscapes, a fresh layer of mulch every 1–2 years is sufficient. Rather than continually adding new mulch on top of old, rake and loosen the existing layer first. If the old mulch has broken down significantly, you can add a fresh inch on top. We offer mulch in both bags and bulk quantities — contact us for delivery options.

    • Spring (April–May) and fall (September–October) are ideal planting times in our area. Fall planting is often underrated — cooler temperatures reduce transplant stress, and roots continue to establish through November before the ground freezes. Avoid planting in the heat of midsummer when possible.

    • Newly planted trees and shrubs need consistent watering for the first 1–2 years while their root systems establish. Water deeply once or twice a week rather than frequent shallow watering. A general rule is 1–2 inches of water per week throughout the growing season. Continue watering until the ground freezes in late fall — this is especially critical for evergreens, which lose moisture through their needles all winter but cannot draw water from frozen soil.

    • The timing depends on whether your shrub blooms on old wood or new wood. Shrubs that bloom in spring (lilac, forsythia, azalea, rhododendron) set their flower buds the previous fall — prune these immediately after they finish blooming in spring, or you’ll cut off next year’s flowers. Shrubs that bloom in summer (hydrangea paniculata, butterfly bush, spirea) bloom on new growth — prune these in late winter or early spring before growth begins.

    • Yellowing leaves can signal several issues: overwatering, underwatering, nutrient deficiency, or incorrect soil pH. In our area, acid-loving plants like azaleas, rhododendrons, and hollies frequently show yellowing (chlorosis) when soil pH is too high. A simple soil test can identify the problem. Stop by and ask us — we can help you diagnose the issue and recommend the right amendment or fertilizer.

    • Consider four key factors: mature size, sun exposure, soil conditions, and purpose (shade, privacy, ornamental, wildlife habitat). Many homeowners plant shrubs that look small in the pot but eventually outgrow their space. Our staff can help you select the right plant for the right location so it thrives for decades without overcrowding.

    • Annuals complete their entire life cycle in one growing season — they bloom, set seed, and die by fall. Perennials come back year after year from the same root system. A good garden typically includes both: perennials for a reliable backbone and annuals for continuous color all season long.

    • Our last average frost date in Montgomery County is around April 15–April 30. Wait until after that date before planting frost-sensitive annuals like impatiens, petunias, marigolds, and begonias. If you plant too early and a late frost threatens, cover plants overnight with a light frost cloth.

    • Different perennials bloom at different times. For continuous color, plant a mix of early bloomers (creeping phlox, bleeding heart), mid-season bloomers (coneflower, black-eyed Susan, daylily), and late-season varieties (sedum, asters, ornamental grasses). Stop by Elite Garden & Greenhouse and our staff can help you build a season-long color plan for your beds.

    • You have two options. Cutting back in fall (after foliage turns yellow or brown) keeps beds tidy. Waiting until early spring has added benefits — dried seed heads provide food for birds and winter visual interest, and the plant tops offer extra crown protection through freezing temperatures. Most ornamental grasses should be left through winter and cut back in March or early April.

    • Deadheading — removing spent flowers before they go to seed — encourages most annuals to keep producing blooms. Regular fertilizing with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer every 2–3 weeks also helps sustain vigorous blooming throughout the season.

    • Elite Garden & Greenhouse has proudly served the Harleysville area and surrounding communities since 1987. We’re a locally owned business with decades of experience helping homeowners with all of their lawn, garden, and outdoor living needs.

    • Absolutely. Elite Garden & Greenhouse is fully insured, ICPI certified, and holds a LEED Accreditation. We also use eco-friendly products and green work practices wherever possible.

    • Yes. We are committed to sustainable practices and carry eco-friendly products. We use green products and work practices as part of our standard approach to landscaping and garden care.

    • We accept cash, personal checks, Visa, MasterCard, Discover, and American Express.

    • Yes, financing is available on select products and services. Ask us in store or give us a call to find out what qualifies and to discuss your options.

    • Yes! We offer a full range of landscaping services including garden bed creation and installation, walkways, patios, retaining walls, water features, grading, seeding, and lawn installation. We also provide spring and fall cleanup services. Our team is ICPI certified and fully insured.

    • We offer free landscape estimates. Just give us a call at (610) 287-9144 and we’ll set up a time to come out and discuss your project.

    • We carry a wide selection of annuals, perennials, shrubs, and trees, along with mulch, firewood, garden supplies, and patio furniture. We also carry hot tubs, above-ground pools, and outdoor BBQ grills from Bull BBQ. Whether you’re sprucing up a flower bed or outfitting your entire backyard, we have what you need.

    • Yes. Our plant inventory changes with the seasons to reflect what grows best at each time of year. We bring in fresh stock regularly throughout the spring and summer, so there’s always something new to discover. Call us or stop in to find out what’s currently available.

    • You can call us at (610) 287-9144 during store hours. You can also reach us through the contact form on our website and we’ll get back to you as soon as possible.

    • Yes, follow us on social media to see what’s new in the garden center, get seasonal inspiration, and stay in the loop on upcoming events and promotions.

    • Yes! Sign up for our newsletter to stay up to date on seasonal specials, new arrivals, events, and gardening tips. Click here to subscribe.

    • Yes, we have on-site parking available for our customers.

    • We’re located at 1457 Sumneytown Pike, Harleysville, PA 19438, right along Sumneytown Pike in Montgomery County. Click here for driving directions.

    • Our store is open Monday through Saturday, 9am to 5pm. Please note that our hours may vary seasonally — give us a call at (610) 287-9144 or check back here for the most current schedule.

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